Chateau Montfort

On a clear day, the white peaks behind Montfort seem almost close enough to reach out and touch. It’s that cusp of the seasons when autumn leaves, snow-capped mountains, and scarlet sunsets mingle for just a moment; that one or two weeks when everything pauses, like an orchestra between movements of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. It’s too early to ski and there’s too much snow to hike. It’s also shooting season, so our lovely carefree dog walks through the forest are on hold; men with guns and hipflasks of Armagnac are not a great combination. One thing that does benefit at this time of the year though is the garden. Last weekend we planted a huge established Magnolia tree and an avenue of Crepe Myrtles, so thankfully, not everything is in a holding pattern.

This recipe for Beef and Stout casserole with dumplings is something I often make during the ski season, but it’s equally perfect after a full day of gardening. I generally prep the night before which makes for a speedy early morning exit; all that’s needed is to brown the cubed beef and vegetables, add the stout and seasonings, and pop it in the AGA. If you don’t have an AGA, a slow 160C oven is fine. A crockpot will do perfectly too. It’s all about fall-off-your-fork slow-cooked meat and the delicious wintery flavours of stout, rosemary, bay and a hint of orange. For me, dinners like these are part of the magic of  winter, but particularly, the ski season—the smell of fires burning, that synthetic swoosh of ski pants as one leg slowly brushes past the other after a long day on the mountain and the unforgettable sensation of coming home to the comforting scent of a slow-cooked meal. The dumplings take no time at all to prepare; just make the dough, pop them in the pot and sink into a chair by the fire with an apéro while they puff up into perfect fluffy balls. This is no fuss hearty winter fare.

I used heirloom carrots from my local market, but regular orange ones will do. These purple ones always remind me of my childhood. In the 70’s there was an Australian add for toothpaste that claimed their fluoride ‘got into’ your teeth. The concept was demonstrated to a class of schoolchildren by a woman none of us had ever heard of called Mrs Marsh, a kind of Aussie Mary Poppins, who strode in with a confident swagger, dipped a piece of chalk into a glass of purple water, then expertly snapped it in half showing a thick purple ring around the stick of pure white chalk. The nation was agog and Mrs Marsh became a household name. Any Australian of a certain age will remember it, and no matter how many times I cook these purple heirloom carrots—there she is, and so is that famous slogan, ‘ohhhh, it really does get in.’

You can use any brand of stout for this recipe. I used Stroller Oatmeal Stout from Southbourne Ales in Bournemouth. It’s not something we can buy here in France; it was a lovely gift from some friends from Dorset.It’s also nice to be able to promote the ales of a female brewer. Jennifer Tingay won a Silver Medal for this Oatmeal stout at the International Brewing Awards in 2015 and its rich velvety flavour with hints of blackberry and liquorice are perfect for this dish.

As a side, I like to serve a bowl of finely sliced pan-fried brussel sprouts, cooked with a generous knob of creamy Normandy butter and a good sprinkling of Maldon Salt till they’re just tender, but still a vibrant green.

Top it off with a slice of Apple and Walnut cake for dessert and a glass of Jurancon sec.

“I wonder if the snow loves the trees and fields, that it kisses them so gently? And then it covers them up snug, you know, with a white quilt; and perhaps it says, “Go to sleep, darlings, till the summer comes again.”

—Lewis Carroll, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland & Through the Looking-Glass

Beef and Stout Casserole with Mushrooms, Carrots, Thyme, and Dumplings

Ingredients:

For the casserole:

• 1 kg (2.2 lbs) beef chuck or stewing beef, cut into 5 cm (2-inch) cubes​

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 2 onions, finely chopped​

• 2 cloves garlic, minced​

• 2 carrots, peeled and sliced​

• 200g (7 oz) mushrooms, sliced​

• 2 tablespoons tomato purée (paste)​

• 500 ml (2 cups) stout beer (such as Guinness)​

• 500 ml (2 cups) beef stock​

• 2 teaspoons dried thyme​

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste​

For the dumplings:

• 225g (1 3/4 cups) self-raising flour​

• 100g (1/2 cup) suet (or grated cold butter)​

• 1 teaspoon baking powder​

• 1 teaspoon dried thyme​

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste​

• 150 ml (2/3 cup) cold water (approximately)​

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Casserole:

   • In a large, heavy-based pot or Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat.​

   • Brown the beef cubes in batches, ensuring all sides are seared. Remove and set aside.​

   • In the same pot, add the chopped onions and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes.​

   • Add the minced garlic and cook for another minute until fragrant.​

   • Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 2 minutes.​

   • Return the browned beef to the pot. Add the sliced carrots, mushrooms, and dried thyme.​

   • Pour in the stout and beef stock, ensuring the ingredients are just covered.​

   • Season with salt and pepper to taste.​

   • Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Cover and let it simmer gently for about 1.5 to 2 hours, or until the beef is tender.​

2. Prepare the Dumplings:

   • In a large bowl, combine the self-raising flour, suet (or grated butter), baking powder, dried thyme, salt, and pepper.​

   • Gradually add the cold water, mixing until a soft dough forms. Do not overwork the dough.​

   • Divide the dough into 12 equal portions and gently roll them into balls.​

3. Assemble and Cook:

   • After the casserole has simmered and the beef is tender, check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.​

   • Place the dumpling balls on top of the casserole, ensuring they are slightly submerged in the liquid.​

   • Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid.​

   • Increase the heat to medium and cook for 15-20 minutes without lifting the lid, allowing the dumplings to steam and cook through.​

   • After this time, remove the lid and check the dumplings. They should be puffed up and cooked through. If they need more time, cover and cook for an additional 5-10 minutes.​

4. Serve:

   • Once the dumplings are cooked, serve the casserole hot, ensuring each serving includes beef, vegetables, and a dumpling.​

Enjoy your hearty Beef and Stout Casserole with fluffy dumplings!

Note: Cooking the dumplings directly on top of the casserole allows them to absorb the rich flavours from the stew, resulting in a delicious combination of textures and tastes.